The restoring thread
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- Delicate, Loveable Dinobot
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The restoring thread
Okay, he has arrived home with yet another lump of scrap iron that used to be a tractor and he is going to restore it and I thought that you guys may be interested to see how a job like this is done.
The tractor in question is a 1969 / 70 David Brown 990 Selectamatic.
I will post pics and technical info as the work progresses.
Here is what it looks like now : -
[img][img]http://i39.tinypic.com/29ptfyx.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i41.tinypic.com/23t0560.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i44.tinypic.com/34eym9y.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i40.tinypic.com/166aant.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i39.tinypic.com/2ltpxqt.jpg[/img][/img]
Work will begin shortly.
The tractor in question is a 1969 / 70 David Brown 990 Selectamatic.
I will post pics and technical info as the work progresses.
Here is what it looks like now : -
[img][img]http://i39.tinypic.com/29ptfyx.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i41.tinypic.com/23t0560.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i44.tinypic.com/34eym9y.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i40.tinypic.com/166aant.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i39.tinypic.com/2ltpxqt.jpg[/img][/img]
Work will begin shortly.
ME GRIMLOCK WANT TO MUNCH METAL
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tractor scrapyards, dealers, restorers, specialist manufacturers or sometimes even embedded in a hedgerow. ( where do ya think i found the tractor )Where do you find your parts at?
No problem, I will be starting with the clutch coz i burned it out trying to drag start the tractor.Please. Post what parts you'll need and the overall steps you'll do
I am having a day on it tomorrow so I will know better then what parts are needed. its gonna be a long job.
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My Dad gets a bunch of Antique Tractor Calendars every year to give out to his customers. These are pics of the tractors from the calendar. I DO NOT own ANY of them![/b] I just thought you tractor buffs would enjoy seeing the pics of unusal tractors!
1) This one is a 1940 Armored John Deere. It has two 30 caliber machine guns turrents. It was a proto-type for the Dept. of Defense in the early days of WWII.
2) This one is a 1942 John Deere LA. It is the smallest John Deere model in the 2-cylinder era. This tractor's primary goal was to try and convert farmers from animal power to tractor power. Brand new it cost: $545.
3) This one is a 1935 Plymouth. Only 217 of these were ever built! Only 30 of these tractors are still in running condition.
4) This one is a 1938 Graham-Bradley. This could be ordered from the Sears-Roebuck catalogue.
1) This one is a 1940 Armored John Deere. It has two 30 caliber machine guns turrents. It was a proto-type for the Dept. of Defense in the early days of WWII.
2) This one is a 1942 John Deere LA. It is the smallest John Deere model in the 2-cylinder era. This tractor's primary goal was to try and convert farmers from animal power to tractor power. Brand new it cost: $545.
3) This one is a 1935 Plymouth. Only 217 of these were ever built! Only 30 of these tractors are still in running condition.
4) This one is a 1938 Graham-Bradley. This could be ordered from the Sears-Roebuck catalogue.
THE PROTECTOR OF CYBERTRON
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Okay it has a new clutch in it.
First i removed the steering wheel
then i disconnected all of the wiring ( well i ripped it out and threw it away, who needs wiring ) from the dash plate
i disconnected the hand throttle from the fuel pump, then removed the dash plate
i emptied the fuel tank in to a suitable container ( which wasnt big enough so i spent an hour cleaning the overspill up before she saw it )
i removed the fuel tank
I then supported the rear half of the tractor just behind the bell housing with axle stands ( which were cunningly disguised as breeze blocks coz i couldnt find the axle stands )
I then placed a trolly jack under the back of the engine
i undid the 10 bolts that hold the gearbox and the engine together then i wheeled the front half of the tractor forwards to get at the clutch ( well what was left of it anyway )
exactly why the jack decided to loose hight very rapidly is anyones guess so I ended up with the front half looking like it wanted to blast in to space or something, however never fear the loader lifted it.
i replaced the clutch disk and treid to put the two halfs back together, but i forgot to chock the back wheels with the resulting loud crash as the breeze blocks gave way and the gearbox hit the ground, I did eventually get the two halfs back together but she came home at that point, so I had other more important things to attend to.
More when I get time
First i removed the steering wheel
then i disconnected all of the wiring ( well i ripped it out and threw it away, who needs wiring ) from the dash plate
i disconnected the hand throttle from the fuel pump, then removed the dash plate
i emptied the fuel tank in to a suitable container ( which wasnt big enough so i spent an hour cleaning the overspill up before she saw it )
i removed the fuel tank
I then supported the rear half of the tractor just behind the bell housing with axle stands ( which were cunningly disguised as breeze blocks coz i couldnt find the axle stands )
I then placed a trolly jack under the back of the engine
i undid the 10 bolts that hold the gearbox and the engine together then i wheeled the front half of the tractor forwards to get at the clutch ( well what was left of it anyway )
exactly why the jack decided to loose hight very rapidly is anyones guess so I ended up with the front half looking like it wanted to blast in to space or something, however never fear the loader lifted it.
i replaced the clutch disk and treid to put the two halfs back together, but i forgot to chock the back wheels with the resulting loud crash as the breeze blocks gave way and the gearbox hit the ground, I did eventually get the two halfs back together but she came home at that point, so I had other more important things to attend to.
More when I get time
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I have rebuilt its engine over christmas, before kath left.
First i took the exhaust silencer off then the bonnet.
Then i removed the sump plug to let the engine oil drain but i forgot to put a pan under it with the end result of her swearing at me as she slipped on the oil and fell on her a$$
Then I removed the sump and oil pump and untightened the 8 bolts ( 2 to each of the four conrods ) that hold the two halves of the big ends together around the crankshaft and removed the bottom halves.
I then removed the rocker cover, rockshaft, shoverods and the cylider head.
to my unending horror i saw that the compresion rings in bore #3 had scored the cylinder wall, meaning that the engine block needed reboreing.
so i removed the pistons and conrods then i tried to remove the crankshaft, i spent half an hour pulling, pushing, swearing and generally abuseing it, before she just undid the screw that holds it in place
I then had a guy come in with the correct tool to rebore the engine block making it bigger by 1 70th of an inch i then fitted new liners and slightly bigger pistons ( wahey, more power ) then I reversed the order of the above to rebuild the engine.
We then spent 2 hours trying to start it, before with the help of easy - start ( the second biggest sin in motoring cause they get addicted to it and then they wont start without it ) it came to life
it then blew the silencer straight up because some dunce hadnt tightened it on ( yes, i was sworn at again )
Only one thing to do now ........
road test
First i took the exhaust silencer off then the bonnet.
Then i removed the sump plug to let the engine oil drain but i forgot to put a pan under it with the end result of her swearing at me as she slipped on the oil and fell on her a$$
Then I removed the sump and oil pump and untightened the 8 bolts ( 2 to each of the four conrods ) that hold the two halves of the big ends together around the crankshaft and removed the bottom halves.
I then removed the rocker cover, rockshaft, shoverods and the cylider head.
to my unending horror i saw that the compresion rings in bore #3 had scored the cylinder wall, meaning that the engine block needed reboreing.
so i removed the pistons and conrods then i tried to remove the crankshaft, i spent half an hour pulling, pushing, swearing and generally abuseing it, before she just undid the screw that holds it in place
I then had a guy come in with the correct tool to rebore the engine block making it bigger by 1 70th of an inch i then fitted new liners and slightly bigger pistons ( wahey, more power ) then I reversed the order of the above to rebuild the engine.
We then spent 2 hours trying to start it, before with the help of easy - start ( the second biggest sin in motoring cause they get addicted to it and then they wont start without it ) it came to life
it then blew the silencer straight up because some dunce hadnt tightened it on ( yes, i was sworn at again )
Only one thing to do now ........
road test
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