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galvatron wrote:I think maybe a nice new paint job and some stickers from REPO LABELS and ol' Trailbreaker could look pretty darn good.
But I do need to glue his head back on.

Oh, I love Reprolabels! Going there like here is akin to skipping through a candy shop! I like them as opposed to other label makers because they place the factory labels along with the standard ones that the kids could put on.

As far as getting your head on..........

I have discovered that two part five minute epoxy works terrific!! It comes in two different tubes and you have to mix precicely half and half of each component or it won't work. Also if you use it ........ five minutes literally means five minutes!

You have to hold those parts together and not move them for five full minutes after that its on and whatever parts you have fused won't be as likely to come apart as they might with super glue. You also don't have the warping issues and fume haze to worry about with epoxy as opposed to the cyanoacrylate.

All chrome paint just looks silver. I've been meaning to try that gold leaf/ chrome stuff, too.

Showing massive ignorance here but what exactly is the whole definition of the word "kitbash-ing"? I don't think its a term limited to the realm of just painting .........so I am just curious.

Also I found out a little paint application trickety trick.

If you want your paint to have a metal fleck/Kandy look to it but you can't find any "real" metal fleck that will cure on your toy's plastic.........

Get yourself some (I use you don't necessarily have to use the brand) silver Acryl Model Masters paint. Impregnate the bristles with the silver paint and wash it off in a small cup of water. You may want to do this twice massaging the brush with your fingers. Since the acrylic paint is water soluable it will wash right off your hands/fingers.

After rinsing your brush/bristles there will be small flecks of metal left in the bristles.

Pour out your sealer (Acrylic) into a seperate container after following the stirring instructions then seal your base color with the acrylic clear paint/sealer.

The metal fleck will be applied to the base color paint you've already painted onto your toy in the acrylic sealer you apply on top of it but it gives the paint a metallic look even though the metal fleck was not integrated into the colored pigment of the base coat of colored paint.

The surface dries smooth with no roughness after the gloss sealer application cures and has the look of a deep shine.

I haven't tried this with flat paints but I suspect that it wouldn't make a difference.

Anyway the metal flecks on top of the painted pieces of a custom toy are quite beautiful and I reccomend trying it. Serendipity is a beautiful thing isn't it?

good tip there Roar,

That beard you made Alpha Bits looks good, Galvatron!

But seriously everything looks wonderful especially that Dirge!!!! That monkey is !


I have a question about paint.

I have been using Model Masters Acryl on the G-1 toys I have painted it cured on the plastic beautifully with no problems at all!

I was in the process of making an Arcee out of an Alternators Tracks but last night after an entire weekend of sitting on an air conditioning register the paint failed to cure.

The silver paint cured as did the black but when I used the Acryl "hot pink pearl" to get my pinkish color the non-curing started.

The coats I gave the Tracks figure were light and not too thick and on the hood, roof and back. Now the thing is.........it cured in some places but not in others! Especially the sides and on those little mirrors.

You guys won't be seeing this one. There's nothing left of it except a head and gun and four tires.

Anyway what kind of paint do you guys reccomend/use that will cure on Alternator plastic/paint they put on it for sure? Also what kind of sealer do/should you use?

I hate to just waste money and time on perfectly good toys, paint and supplies if I am just going to make a tacky feeling mess out of everything I paint.

You could always lightly sand the parts to be painted first. It helps the paint stick better. I use a light sandblaster at work. You have to be REALLY careful with those or the plastic will melt from the sand's force. Light sandpaper tends to work though. I use teh same types of paints for my stuff.

Roar wrote:That beard you made Alpha Bits looks good, Galvatron!

But seriously everything looks wonderful especially that Dirge!!!! That monkey is !


I have a question about paint.

I have been using Model Masters Acryl on the G-1 toys I have painted it cured on the plastic beautifully with no problems at all!

I was in the process of making an Arcee out of an Alternators Tracks but last night after an entire weekend of sitting on an air conditioning register the paint failed to cure.

The silver paint cured as did the black but when I used the Acryl "hot pink pearl" to get my pinkish color the non-curing started.

The coats I gave the Tracks figure were light and not too thick and on the hood, roof and back. Now the thing is.........it cured in some places but not in others! Especially the sides and on those little mirrors.

You guys won't be seeing this one. There's nothing left of it except a head and gun and four tires.

Anyway what kind of paint do you guys reccomend/use that will cure on Alternator plastic/paint they put on it for sure? Also what kind of sealer do/should you use?

I hate to just waste money and time on perfectly good toys, paint and supplies if I am just going to make a tacky feeling mess out of everything I paint.

Don't tell me you got rid of Tracks?!?

Repaint him Black and sell it or something lol.

I have a quick customizing question How would I go about painting G1 Starscream's optics red like the cartoon And what color red would make it shine the most, giving it that glow effect,

first paint the eyes with silver,

afterwards put on two coats of clear/translucent red , the kind used for making taillights on model cars

Thanks for the fast reply Kup!

Where's the best place for paint? A hobby/model shop? And if so, would the clerks know what I'm talkin' about when I asked them for clear/translucent red

Sorry, but I'm such a newbie at this, but I'd like to customize my figures, on account of Hasbro/Takara not makin' them cartoon-accurate,

Hey Sixshot be sure to give Starscream's eyes a good clean to make sure that any glue from the eye sticker is gone before you try and paint. Otherwise it might not cure properly and that is a right pain. I agree with Kup about the eye shine, thats some solid advice. Hope you have a steady hand.

Rumble.

you'll need tamiya x11 silver and x27 clear red

I hope so, too, but I'm thinkin' of doing this 2 my MISB Takara TF Collection Starscream!

I think I'll try it out on a Junker, first, tho, so I don't mess up the real one, ! So is a hobby/model shop the place to go for the clear/translucent red paint

Awesome, Kup, ! U must've been typin' @ the same time, ! I think I will try this on a junker first, tho,

Tip I remember from Roar- getcha one of them magnetic trays. I think they have them at auto parts stores.

Tip from me-they sell detail brushes with really fine tips. I wish I would've bought them long ago!

hey, I has a question....

How might one go about removing unwanted paint from a figure? Say, testor's paint marker? I did some touchups on a figure that I have now decided didn't need touchups. Any suggestions?

Octane, is it acryillic or oil based? If its acryillic try some 'paint clean up wipes' that you should be able to find in a diy store. Normally used to clean paint from hands after decorating, so might clean off the top layer that you put on the figure with a bit of a going over.

Rumble.

Octane wrote:hey, I has a question....

How might one go about removing unwanted paint from a figure? Say, testor's paint marker? I did some touchups on a figure that I have now decided didn't need touchups. Any suggestions?

I used Goo Gone to take silver Testor's enamel paint marker off of a Mutant Skycutter and it worked like a dream! The original paint on the toy should stay on while the other will rub off gradually with a course paper towel or a white cotton terry cloth. Put your Goo Gone on the affected part and let it lie on the surface for awhile then start the process of rubbing it off. It may take more than one application so you have to be patient.

Look who is advising patience........

It doesn't seem to take the detail off of your labels if it just happens to get on them but I wouldn't tempt fate with it either so I'd try to keep Goo Gone off the labels. It is a petroleum distillate.

Anyhoo..........

Praise be to mighty Ramjet for introducing me to Goo Gone! That stuff is a life and time saver! Goo Gone comes in bottles, mini portable pens and big 'Ol big spray bottles too. Its a little pricy but helps prevent you from ruining toy boxes during the price tag removal process and toys during paint or label removal. It also gets rid of that sticky price tag glue too!

If Goo Gone doesn't work.........very carefully use some paint thinner or if you're feeling adventurous lighter fluid (that delightful stuff that comes in a yellow can... Ronson's) and gently massage the affected area. Take care to not get the lighter fluid or paint thinner on any plastic windows or your vacuum metalized parts it could haze it. It'll sometimes warp plastic windows too.

If you use any of the above make sure and burn your paper towels or wash your cloth towels as soon as you can. Don't store either until later because items impregnated with petroleum distillates could spontaneously combust and set your house on fire.

You'll at least have an excellent chance to play with fire for a "legitimate" reason.

Rubbing alcohol (isoprophyl) will take the paint off too but it will for sure haze and mess up your metal parts and windows. It'll strip the dye off your labels just as sure as the world spins too. Use this stuff as a last resort with great care only.

The only chemical I can say to never toss on a Transformer is turpentine. That stuff is like tossing holy water on a vampire! I don't know if any of you have had experience with it but it turned my white Transformer paint chalky after it dried and made a blooming mess out of a Red Alert I had! I also got the turpentine on my jeans.......a couple of hours later I felt a burning sensation on my leg.

The turps had actually burned the area of skin where it fell on my pants and made a welt on my skin!

So stay away from it!

If your paint is acrylic try scraping it off with your fingernail or the paper part of a Q-tip after the cotton is pulled off. Since acrylic paint is kind of like a plasticy rubber and has a matte finish to begin with your fingernails will catch the paint surface easily and maybe all you have to do is just peel/scrape it off in sections.

This is a good start for customs: JSDT Guides

He does some fantastic stuff, be sure to check out the rest of the site.

JSDT Main

Of course I am sure any of the customisers here on TFL will gladly answer any questions you may have.

Rumble.

Thanks Rumble! Where can I get this modelling epoxy? Someone suggested "Sheet styrene?" What is it??