Transformerland.com

Time Traveller wrote:i'm sure online guides will pop up that will show the giveaways.... i'm certianly putting a freeze on my planned purchases of some of these guys' parts until i do see something like that. One way is always to go TFL!

Now, don't get me wrong, and I'm not trying to imply anything at all... but at this point, I'm not certain even Trance would be able to tell the difference between G1 and G1 accurate knockoff in many instances.

I know for a FACT that some of this stuff has slipped by otherwise reputable sellers (contact me for details).

FYI, the following is currently THE BEST guide to differentiate G1 from counterfeit:

http://highendtfs.com/?q=node/17

We don't make publicity to eBay sellers - either good or bad. Jose.

Thats helps with the boxes, but what about the accessories? I couldn't tell the difference between some G1 and G2 stuff and now there are these KO. For instance, how do I tell which version Optimus's black rocket goes to?


For some items I sort of judge it by the items it came with. So when the seller tells me it came out of box of toys he had in storage for years. And the lot includes a yellowed galvatron, some headmasters, micromasters, a broken inferno and jazz. I assume the hand full of loose accessories is equally vintage. Especially when the seller knows nothing about them, other than to call them transformers. And even then has mistakenly added a few nonTF robots to the lot.


But when I get a group of items that includes some KO transformers and some genuine G1 how do I judge the accessories from bots not in the lot?

Therein lies the rub.

Frankly, it's nigh impossible. With experience, you theoretically *should* be able to tell based on feel and looks, for most parts... though I can't say for certain, since I haven't seen/felt ALL the KO parts out there. Knockoff parts often (but not always!) possess one or more of the following traits:
1) made of an inferior quality of plastic
2) have different mold injection points
3) subtly different coloring
4) suffer from slight losses of detail.

Thanks for the guide Banzai-Tron. I'm sure it will (unfortunately) become useful.
To be honest I don't mind KO's, BUT they should be easy to tell apart from the real deal. Which those aren't... *sigh*

Wheeljack wrote: thanks for the heads up hound. Sure does open the eyes to pay more attention when buying.

wj

Let me explain what I meant. This is obviously good to know. Why, because without knowing, one would just assume that every g1 transformer is exactly that, an original g1 transformer. It doesn't make purchasing any easier but it does bring one into reality. That there are good fakes out there and there is the possibility of being duked.

Without knowing this I would have just assumed that every g1 that appeared to be an original was in fact an original. And I do agree, it's sad that someone has to ruin it for the true collectors.

wj

The problem with fakes is unavoidable and I believe it's part of the hobby. Personally, like others have said, I don't have a problem with a reproduction whenever it's clearly stated as such. Can you afford a real Picasso, for example? I believe that most of us won't. But you can get a replica for an affordable price. Same applies to TFs and that's the reality of reissues.

We can get mad, tell to those who make them to stuff it, whatever: I don't believe we wouldn't even make a small dent in the fake market.

Sadly yes, they are making it more complicated for the hobby. Without lab testing, in many cases I wouldn't be myself able to tell for sure if a part is real or fake. From a picture on the internet, I simply can't.

So, collectors beware and start thinking further: You may use more than your common sense now.
- Pay what you would for a fake if it's a remote purchase.
- Pay premium only when you know enough to tell the differences from the real and the fake.
- Keep studying!

most of the ko boxes ive seen have italic style writing in the tech specs and its in a different font to the genuine g1 as is the autobouts primary function on the box front ( ie grimlock dinobot commander as opposed to grimlock dinobot commander )
also there are minor spelling differences on most of them ( grimlock dinobot comander as opposed to grimlock dinobot commander )

How do you know all of that ?

How do you know all of that ?

its just cause im a genius

seriously though i bought a lot of about 20 g1 boxes as genuine and all but 2 were KOs and thats how i spotted them

Therein lies the rub.

Frankly, it's nigh impossible. With experience, you theoretically *should* be able to tell based on feel and looks, for most parts... though I can't say for certain, since I haven't seen/felt ALL the KO parts out there. Knockoff parts often (but not always!) possess one or more of the following traits:
1) made of an inferior quality of plastic
2) have different mold injection points
3) subtly different coloring
4) suffer from slight losses of detail.

1.I used to think I had an idea what the plastic should feel like and then I got some dinobots. Between them, the combiners, and the gold plastic it became apparent that just because it felt cheap didn't mean it wasn't real.
2. I have NO G1 piece that I purchased when they were originally sold. So I have no definite base line for anything. Let alone for everything.
3. Yellowing confuses that issue, and even when it doesn't I get a lot of separate accessories so I have no bot to compare it to.

Damn it Dirge, you got nailed there!! 18 of them were ko's?

yeah dont i know it

i didnt even know people were making KOs of these boxes
only snaptraps and slags werent ko or as far as i can tell they arent anyway

what annoyed me more was that when i realised i had been nailed to the floor i was stuck with 18 ko boxes and i had to sell them as such end result was that i paid £350 for 20 and sold 18 of them for £175