I know this is a very long-shot, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.
My son has the 2019 Transformers/Ghostbusters Collaborative Toy 'Ectotron Ecto-1'.
The passenger-side door broke off where the pin secures to the clear plastic. It's the clear plastic part that broke.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a way I can fix this for my son.
I attached 2 pictures in hopes that someone would be able to help me.
I tried asking Hasbro, but they do not repair products & don't have a suggestion as to how to repair the door.
The person who responded did suggest reaching out to local pawn shops, sometimes they repair products.
I don't think I want to go that route, if possible.
Broken Piece
Moderator: Jose
Broken Piece
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- Hasbro~2.jpg (228.81 KiB) Viewed 7487 times
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Time Traveller
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Re: Broken Piece
Do you have the broken bits of the clear plastic that used to attach over the top of the pin?
Re: Broken Piece
In the vein that Time Traveler has asked, if you have all the pieces that came off your broken clear plastic piece, no problem!
Do not use super glue, wise knowledge imparted from Time Traveler years ago. Cyanoacrylate warps plastic, and it gets worse over time.
What works wonders is Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy clear. It looks like a syringe, and you break off the ends of it to push out the two parts of the glue to mix and put on your piece. I use that stuff to repair *everything* you name it-refrigerator shelves, broken ceramic, glue parts on toys back together, and whatever you adhere together, stays together. The epoxy is incredibly strong.
The epoxy is also non-reactive with all plastics, and it cures clear, so the repair will not be readily visible. I had a G-1 Swoop that had a broken top beak, I took the pin out of the head and jaw, packed the beak with the GG epoxy, and you can't tell that it has been repaired, it looks terrific. I'll never sell it, so just for the heck of it as a preventative measure, I removed the blue piece underneath my G-1 Mirage spoiler and reinforced it with some epoxy before it became cracked, and it's not a question of "if" but "when". (the repair is completely invisible)
What you need to do is go to Home Depot or Wal-Mart to buy your Gorilla Glue epoxy (because other places are gouging) you shouldn't pay more for it than $6.99-$7.99 at the most.
When you get your adhesive and are ready to repair your part, if at all possible, if you can remove the part that has the broken off areas on it from the rest of the toy, that would be better because you won't risk getting glue in joints and places that you might not want to, but if you can't well, you'll just have to be careful.
I know that sounds ugly and kind of smart-alecky, don't mean it that way- it's just the way it is.
To prep your repair, you need to clean the areas affected and broken off pieces with a mild solution of warm water and dish soap, then rinse it until all of it is void of soap residue. (I would say use rubbing alcohol, but it could permanently haze your clear plastic parts, so I wouldn't risk it. It depends on the plastic)
When your parts are good and dry, and you have everything set out on a flat surface, you'll want to put a layer of wax paper down on the table you're working on, that will prevent glue from getting on your work surface.
You will need a paper plate to squeeze your epoxy onto, a paper Chinet or Dixie plate, the kind with a plastic anti-leak covering is what I would suggest, or if you don't mind losing it, something with a glass surface. Just know whatever you use to mix your epoxy with is going to be garbage after, hence the disposable plate.
You might also want to wear a pair of latex gloves, I don't because they really don't allow you to "feel" what you are doing, but it's not easy to get off your skin if you don't glove up, so be warned.
Your 2 part GG epoxy will come with a mixer molded onto the syringe, but I always have toothpicks on hand when I do toy repair work because you need a small object with a distal temper and fine point to add small dabs, because the built in mixer has its' uses, but it is too large to use for the precise work you will be doing.
If the broken off part is too small, you might want to use a pair of tweezers to place your broken piece on with. As small as the broken piece will be, I suspect, you won't be able to control the placement of the broken piece with your fingers, glue will get on them, and you'll wind up with smears.
If you want to get really exacting, and if the piece is large enough, you might want to get a little beeswax, roll it between your fingers until it is pliable, put a tiny ball of it on a toothpick, and then put it on the opposite end of the broken piece that you want to affix to your son's toy (making sure to not get wax in the areas you want to glue) as it will help you control the part placement easier than with just fingers.
When you mix the 2 part epoxy, you know it is well-mixed when it heats up and smells a little like Sulphur, that's a good thing, that means it's working. After you get your epoxy mixed, you have five to six minutes where it is "open" and easily manipulated. Put a small dab on the tip of your toothpick, and dot just enough epoxy on the edge of the breaks, both the "mother" piece, and the part that's broken off, then adhere them to one another.
It'll be difficult, but keep firm and still contact between the pieces for a minute. After that, slowly remove your tweezers, or if you did the wax method, gently roll the toothpick between your fingers until the wax releases it.
The epoxy will set in one hour, but it cures in 24 hours.
After that you have a hard plastic repair that will be durable and if the toy breaks again, it will break in another weak part of the little clear "window"
Of course, I would definitely wait for Time Traveler to give repair advice as well, as he has had much more experience in these matters, I just am telling you what works for me.
Do not use super glue, wise knowledge imparted from Time Traveler years ago. Cyanoacrylate warps plastic, and it gets worse over time.
What works wonders is Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy clear. It looks like a syringe, and you break off the ends of it to push out the two parts of the glue to mix and put on your piece. I use that stuff to repair *everything* you name it-refrigerator shelves, broken ceramic, glue parts on toys back together, and whatever you adhere together, stays together. The epoxy is incredibly strong.
The epoxy is also non-reactive with all plastics, and it cures clear, so the repair will not be readily visible. I had a G-1 Swoop that had a broken top beak, I took the pin out of the head and jaw, packed the beak with the GG epoxy, and you can't tell that it has been repaired, it looks terrific. I'll never sell it, so just for the heck of it as a preventative measure, I removed the blue piece underneath my G-1 Mirage spoiler and reinforced it with some epoxy before it became cracked, and it's not a question of "if" but "when". (the repair is completely invisible)
What you need to do is go to Home Depot or Wal-Mart to buy your Gorilla Glue epoxy (because other places are gouging) you shouldn't pay more for it than $6.99-$7.99 at the most.
When you get your adhesive and are ready to repair your part, if at all possible, if you can remove the part that has the broken off areas on it from the rest of the toy, that would be better because you won't risk getting glue in joints and places that you might not want to, but if you can't well, you'll just have to be careful.
I know that sounds ugly and kind of smart-alecky, don't mean it that way- it's just the way it is.
To prep your repair, you need to clean the areas affected and broken off pieces with a mild solution of warm water and dish soap, then rinse it until all of it is void of soap residue. (I would say use rubbing alcohol, but it could permanently haze your clear plastic parts, so I wouldn't risk it. It depends on the plastic)
When your parts are good and dry, and you have everything set out on a flat surface, you'll want to put a layer of wax paper down on the table you're working on, that will prevent glue from getting on your work surface.
You will need a paper plate to squeeze your epoxy onto, a paper Chinet or Dixie plate, the kind with a plastic anti-leak covering is what I would suggest, or if you don't mind losing it, something with a glass surface. Just know whatever you use to mix your epoxy with is going to be garbage after, hence the disposable plate.
You might also want to wear a pair of latex gloves, I don't because they really don't allow you to "feel" what you are doing, but it's not easy to get off your skin if you don't glove up, so be warned.
Your 2 part GG epoxy will come with a mixer molded onto the syringe, but I always have toothpicks on hand when I do toy repair work because you need a small object with a distal temper and fine point to add small dabs, because the built in mixer has its' uses, but it is too large to use for the precise work you will be doing.
If the broken off part is too small, you might want to use a pair of tweezers to place your broken piece on with. As small as the broken piece will be, I suspect, you won't be able to control the placement of the broken piece with your fingers, glue will get on them, and you'll wind up with smears.
If you want to get really exacting, and if the piece is large enough, you might want to get a little beeswax, roll it between your fingers until it is pliable, put a tiny ball of it on a toothpick, and then put it on the opposite end of the broken piece that you want to affix to your son's toy (making sure to not get wax in the areas you want to glue) as it will help you control the part placement easier than with just fingers.
When you mix the 2 part epoxy, you know it is well-mixed when it heats up and smells a little like Sulphur, that's a good thing, that means it's working. After you get your epoxy mixed, you have five to six minutes where it is "open" and easily manipulated. Put a small dab on the tip of your toothpick, and dot just enough epoxy on the edge of the breaks, both the "mother" piece, and the part that's broken off, then adhere them to one another.
It'll be difficult, but keep firm and still contact between the pieces for a minute. After that, slowly remove your tweezers, or if you did the wax method, gently roll the toothpick between your fingers until the wax releases it.
The epoxy will set in one hour, but it cures in 24 hours.
After that you have a hard plastic repair that will be durable and if the toy breaks again, it will break in another weak part of the little clear "window"
Of course, I would definitely wait for Time Traveler to give repair advice as well, as he has had much more experience in these matters, I just am telling you what works for me.
Più di quanto sembri
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Time Traveller
- Father Time (Admin)
- Posts: 6550
- Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2003 12:12 am
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- Contact:
Re: Broken Piece
Don't wait for me, that comprehensively covers it! I've had a great deal of success with Plastruct Plastic Weld, but the epoxy method Roar detailed above may actually prove a stronger repair for a joint area, especially given that it is not a decorated part of the car or robot body.
