yellowing the test
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Time Traveller
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yer time travelers right always wear cloves and with the 30% always wear them until all parts are well rinsed (i place mine in a dish of water for about 30min. after treatment).
also now we know the 3% dose to the job, id say give this a try first (its cheaper, if it dosent do what your after then give the stronger stuff a go)
also now we know the 3% dose to the job, id say give this a try first (its cheaper, if it dosent do what your after then give the stronger stuff a go)
this morning i recived some bad news, my friends dad (the lad who found this treatment) died late last night.
i know a lot of people here dosnt know him but hes a good friend of mine and i wish him and his family well though this difficult time.
i will contiune the treatment and answer any question i can by myself until paul gets back on his feet.
i know a lot of people here dosnt know him but hes a good friend of mine and i wish him and his family well though this difficult time.
i will contiune the treatment and answer any question i can by myself until paul gets back on his feet.
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Commander Megatron
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paul asked me to thank you all for your warm wishers though this time.
this is a small update for anyone wanting to try this but carnt find any soloution, this was posted by a member on another forum were i placed this thread :-
So here is my update its a bit late.. I was using 12% Peroxide cream hair dye what I brought from a chemist mixed with warm water, and used the passenger hatch of a Starcom Star Max Bomber im not sure how long it took cause I left it on a window seal for a week and forgot about it,
BEFORE
AFTER
as you can see it is so white it is near glowing lol, now for the rest of my skank yellow Star Com bits
I cant thank you enough for this tip off Cat, many thanks!!
this is a small update for anyone wanting to try this but carnt find any soloution, this was posted by a member on another forum were i placed this thread :-
So here is my update its a bit late.. I was using 12% Peroxide cream hair dye what I brought from a chemist mixed with warm water, and used the passenger hatch of a Starcom Star Max Bomber im not sure how long it took cause I left it on a window seal for a week and forgot about it,
BEFORE
AFTER
as you can see it is so white it is near glowing lol, now for the rest of my skank yellow Star Com bits
I cant thank you enough for this tip off Cat, many thanks!!
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Time Traveller
- Father Time (Admin)
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Discovered something today, so here's a word to the wise:
I went out to check parts in a new container i'm using, and wound up fishing around in there with my fingers...
The juice felt quite hot. Turns out, the mix was highly catalyzed, and was reacting a bit with my fingers. They're fine now, i got some lotion on them right away when i realized there had been a little damage done, they're just a little tingly.
Now don't get me wrong, i used my hands when i was taking parts out on previous days, but the peroxide was not catalyzed anymore, and had reacted out. So don't stick your fingers in CATALYZED 3%. or they'll get dry and tingly. maybe worse.
I went out to check parts in a new container i'm using, and wound up fishing around in there with my fingers...
The juice felt quite hot. Turns out, the mix was highly catalyzed, and was reacting a bit with my fingers. They're fine now, i got some lotion on them right away when i realized there had been a little damage done, they're just a little tingly.
Now don't get me wrong, i used my hands when i was taking parts out on previous days, but the peroxide was not catalyzed anymore, and had reacted out. So don't stick your fingers in CATALYZED 3%. or they'll get dry and tingly. maybe worse.
OUCH hows your fingres today ?(ive never had anything more than a drop on any of my skin ((30%)) and know it tingles a bit, but the effects wore off pritty quick),
But if it happens again please dont use loton as this makes a cover over the skin affected and traps the H.P. at your skin prolonging the effect, the best thing to do is rinse under losts of cold running water, this dilutes the stuff, and stops the reaction.
Definitly best to say at any strength its cloves to be used, also please be cafeful too.
i am reposting this here as its page 3(it aint on this page )
READ THIS FIRST *** READ THIS FIRST*** READ THIS FIRST
this is a statment from the lad (my mate) who found this idea:-
HI there i'm new to the boards, but by way of introduction I'm catguts mate, (the one who has been trying out ways of removing the yellowing from figures, in my case transformers). and the suggestion to use this method was given to me by a friend who uses this in labs all the time and stated that it "lightens the colours" on their coloured plastic equipment and therefore may be of use here.
The trial i have been conducting is using a 30% Hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be obtained with a little research on the net (apparently you can get this as a health supllement??)
Anyway i have been soaking the pieces in a glass container and placing this in direct sunlight (ironic i know) , this appears to react with the peroxide causing it to "bleach" the plastics back to their original colours. Unlike conventional bleech this does not appear to cause a brittleness in the plastic after cleaning, however its earlly days yet so use this method at your own risk. The figures i have tried this on were either spares or in dire need of attention.
Now heres the warning part Peroxide is listed as harmful, and so gloves and care should be used when working with this stuff, the contact times vary depending on the plastic and the level of yellowing seen.
If you spill this on skin rinse immediately with plenty of water, the skin will turn white but should return to normal after about 30 to 60 minutes and is associated with a pins and needles type of sensation which lasts for about 10 minutes.
Again use this material and method at your own risk,so far i have had success with all of the figures i have tried this on but i am only trying it on hard - not waxy or rubbery- plastics so the effect on these is currnetly untried.
I'll keep forwarding pics as time and the trial goes by but so far its looking promising.
this also contains the infomation which you need to try this out
also ready my test above to find out the follow up tests which i did and my results.
But if it happens again please dont use loton as this makes a cover over the skin affected and traps the H.P. at your skin prolonging the effect, the best thing to do is rinse under losts of cold running water, this dilutes the stuff, and stops the reaction.
Definitly best to say at any strength its cloves to be used, also please be cafeful too.
i am reposting this here as its page 3(it aint on this page )
READ THIS FIRST *** READ THIS FIRST*** READ THIS FIRST
this is a statment from the lad (my mate) who found this idea:-
HI there i'm new to the boards, but by way of introduction I'm catguts mate, (the one who has been trying out ways of removing the yellowing from figures, in my case transformers). and the suggestion to use this method was given to me by a friend who uses this in labs all the time and stated that it "lightens the colours" on their coloured plastic equipment and therefore may be of use here.
The trial i have been conducting is using a 30% Hydrogen peroxide solution, which can be obtained with a little research on the net (apparently you can get this as a health supllement??)
Anyway i have been soaking the pieces in a glass container and placing this in direct sunlight (ironic i know) , this appears to react with the peroxide causing it to "bleach" the plastics back to their original colours. Unlike conventional bleech this does not appear to cause a brittleness in the plastic after cleaning, however its earlly days yet so use this method at your own risk. The figures i have tried this on were either spares or in dire need of attention.
Now heres the warning part Peroxide is listed as harmful, and so gloves and care should be used when working with this stuff, the contact times vary depending on the plastic and the level of yellowing seen.
If you spill this on skin rinse immediately with plenty of water, the skin will turn white but should return to normal after about 30 to 60 minutes and is associated with a pins and needles type of sensation which lasts for about 10 minutes.
Again use this material and method at your own risk,so far i have had success with all of the figures i have tried this on but i am only trying it on hard - not waxy or rubbery- plastics so the effect on these is currnetly untried.
I'll keep forwarding pics as time and the trial goes by but so far its looking promising.
this also contains the infomation which you need to try this out
also ready my test above to find out the follow up tests which i did and my results.
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Time Traveller
- Father Time (Admin)
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- Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2003 12:12 am
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lol thats great T.T. im pleased yer ok seems like the stuff has the same effect no matter the strength (effect, and reactions too also thankfully recovery time as well).
humm now sticking wangs in it, lol could result in 2 outcomes (a good game of number 1 or a very embarassing trip to A and E)
, think youll be ok with a female nurse rubbing lotion into that wound ramjet 
humm now sticking wangs in it, lol could result in 2 outcomes (a good game of number 1 or a very embarassing trip to A and E)
, think youll be ok with a female nurse rubbing lotion into that wound ramjet ah good stuff catgut this is what i've been lookin for. My dad teaches chemistry so he'll be familiar with the products more than i am...
but general question how long do you steep the parts in the solution for? and it must have direct contact with sunlight, correct
i notice in some of your pics some parts are not completely immersed in the solution...do they need to be immersed or just contained in the jar (yeah stupid question, but i hate chemistry) and catch/absorb the evaporating H2O2?
anyway much thanks, I will ask my dad about getting certain concentrations of the stuff.
ah one more question...how much of the H2O2 should one use..any particular amount or just enough to immerse the parts?
Much thanks
but general question how long do you steep the parts in the solution for? and it must have direct contact with sunlight, correct
i notice in some of your pics some parts are not completely immersed in the solution...do they need to be immersed or just contained in the jar (yeah stupid question, but i hate chemistry) and catch/absorb the evaporating H2O2?
anyway much thanks, I will ask my dad about getting certain concentrations of the stuff.
ah one more question...how much of the H2O2 should one use..any particular amount or just enough to immerse the parts?
Much thanks
hiya many thanks for the comments and hope i can help answer your questions.
when i very first started do the testing we (my mate also) though the items had to be placed into the solution completely, so i placed a jetfire chest plate 1/2 in and half out (more details are on page 1 ) but over night when i rechecked in the morning the complete wing was treated.
so i think as long as the items are in the jar with the soloution (and the lid is on (note i use a coffee jar with a plastic lid, also a pickleing jar too both lids can be closed "sealed" but DONT !!! use a air tight sealing jar, normal jars are fine as even when you screw the lid on its not a 100% seal, but some bought jars are air tight sealing which when the H202 is working could make the jar explode !!!).
the reaction time realy depends on the sun, the type of yellowing (heavey to just turning) and if its hot and the suns realy bright, i place the items (say mid. yellowing) in on the morning about 9.00am and by about 4.00p.m. if the conditions are best there done.
but if its cold and over cast the same items could take up to 4 days
all the items ive done so far is all done out of 200ml at 35% (ive done more bots since the last photos too) and both solutions are both still working although due to time and use the first batch works slower .
i only put 100ml max in each jar as its all thats needed (could be if the jar is realy bit youll need more ).
the sun is definitly a factor in the speed this works, but if the sun isnt the best (like latly for me) i found a bedside spot lamp done help to speed the reaction, but ive also heard the solution works if placed in an airing cupboard near the hot water tank ( i carnt conferm this as, its something i was told ).
when i very first started do the testing we (my mate also) though the items had to be placed into the solution completely, so i placed a jetfire chest plate 1/2 in and half out (more details are on page 1 ) but over night when i rechecked in the morning the complete wing was treated.
so i think as long as the items are in the jar with the soloution (and the lid is on (note i use a coffee jar with a plastic lid, also a pickleing jar too both lids can be closed "sealed" but DONT !!! use a air tight sealing jar, normal jars are fine as even when you screw the lid on its not a 100% seal, but some bought jars are air tight sealing which when the H202 is working could make the jar explode !!!).
the reaction time realy depends on the sun, the type of yellowing (heavey to just turning) and if its hot and the suns realy bright, i place the items (say mid. yellowing) in on the morning about 9.00am and by about 4.00p.m. if the conditions are best there done.
but if its cold and over cast the same items could take up to 4 days
all the items ive done so far is all done out of 200ml at 35% (ive done more bots since the last photos too) and both solutions are both still working although due to time and use the first batch works slower .
i only put 100ml max in each jar as its all thats needed (could be if the jar is realy bit youll need more ).
the sun is definitly a factor in the speed this works, but if the sun isnt the best (like latly for me) i found a bedside spot lamp done help to speed the reaction, but ive also heard the solution works if placed in an airing cupboard near the hot water tank ( i carnt conferm this as, its something i was told ).
